I suppose a few things changed in 32 years
The first time I returned to Hong Kong (a.k.a. ‘Home’) in 2006, after a 30-year absence, I got to visit the street where I grew up, but I didn’t get to walk around the ’hood. Also, I didn’t take any digital shots, though a few rest on 35 mm film. Here, for Voxers, is Hong Kong this time around, as I flew back from New Delhi.
You see, all the stuff about Central and how it’s all grown does not impress me, because I have no close connection to that. For the first years of my life, Kowloon was it. The Island—Hong Kong Island—was where family lived and we occasionally ventured across, and it is nice to see it on occasion, but if you have limited time to spare on a journey home, you want to revisit your old haunts.
Your guided tour begins.
On my first visit back I noticed that despite this huge change, the character of the neighbourhood remained the same. In a way, it still is. Even communists dominating the Legislative Council have not changed the essential character of Kowloon and the Hong Kong people.
One negative thing I will say is that the pollution was terrible. Far, far worse than my walks around New Delhi. That was one change that was not welcome over the last 32 years, and even the locals said it had got to a low point.
To conclude, a shot of airport food. I ate at Food Junction, a take-out place, when heading to New Delhi; flying back it was Maxim’s, my customary yum char spot. You can’t beat Hong Kong yum char, and even so-called cheap airport stuff is better than what you can find at the best Chinese restaurants in New Zealand. It was great to relish food that didn’t taste like warmed-up leftovers, which is the best expats can rustle up while eating out in Enzed.
Best moment: asking a lady where the old 大大 stores were. Her reply: ‘You must have been away for a long time. That place closed decades ago. You must have been away for a long time!’ All in Cantonese, of course. But at least she picked up that I was local, as many did. Some didn’t, speaking Mandarin to me (do I look like a northerner?).
Overall, it was still very easy to fit back in, but one sad thing to note was that I would not choose to live back there now. Even two years ago, visiting when it was less polluted, I entertained the possibility. Not any more, not with the environment the way it is. I’ve gotten too used to the good life.
Comments
Thanks for the tour, it could be Los Angeles. I wouldn't be as happy living where I can't get quality Chinese or Mexican food. So I'd have to grow my own peppers and do more cooking. :-)
Janette, it has gone a bit downhill since the 1970s. I guess all the upper-middlers moved elsewhere. We did know some of the people in our block and we certainly knew all the shop owners. The Fiat people were really nice to me—I still have some of the balloons and brochures they gave me back then.
New Zealand still surprises me even though I have spent more years here than anywhere else!
“I bet the Chinese food here is terrible.” –Marisa Tomei (in: My Cousin Vinny)
I think that we quote more lines from My Cousin Vinny than any other movie. ;)
A friend says that when she went up the Peak in Hong Kong, she could not see the city for the smog. When I was a kid you could get beautiful, clear views of the place from up there.
Hong Kong is on lead-free petrol, too, not that that has helped.
I agree about the geography: Wellington is known for being clean and it’s the winds we have gusting through here all the time!